Where to eat and sleep
A non-exhaustive, curated list of great spots in the valley that have been tested and approved in the real world, not on Tripadvisor.
Dove mangiare e dormire
Una lista non-esaustiva dei migliori luoghi della Valle provati nel mondo reale, non con Tripadvisor.
HOTEL
MEDIA VALTELLINA
OLMO AGRITURISMO
This place has no rivals when it comes to design in Valtellina. Impeccably stylised but nice and down-to-earth at the same this, this little hotel is the latest venture from Olmo (who already has a restaurant in the centre of town and cafe on the outskirts). He knows hospitality, fact. This location would not be out of place in the pages of a high-end magazine. We’re big fans and we know you will be too. Honestly priced as well, he knows the market.
For pizza (& proper regional food too)
Castione
MEdia Valtellina
Ristorante Sisti
Sisti is a staple for truly delicious pizza, and as it has been in the same family since 1891 you'll expect that they know a thing or two about pizzas. Their menu is vast, with all of the local specialities covered to a superb standard, and pizzas that will leave you scratching your head with indecision. Great vibe, especially on the terrace on long, summer evenings.
Postalesio
Media Valtellina
Azienda Agricola Sopralapanca
Alongside maintaining Postalesio's best trails and unearthing at least one ancient route each year, Dario & Cristina also make sublime goats cheese and yoghurt. All organically produced with the utmost respect for their lovingly bred goats (who, it must be said, lead a great life). Everything is super fresh and sold at a range of stores in the valley, or come directly to village and they'll gladly introduce you to the goats and point you in the direction of some great runs.
UPDATE: THEY ALSO RUN A SUPER CUTE B&B/RENTAL APARTMENT with a superb breakfast spread and genuine hospitality.
ORGANIC RESTAURANT & FORAGING.
BARBONi
Media Valtellina
AGRITURISMO VIA DEL CAMPO
This tucked-away restaurant in a small cluster of houses at 1,000 metres is one of the most welcoming places around. Competitively priced with great portion sizes, it is a great place if you’re into locally grown, down-to-earth food, done creatively. Mega vegetarian friendly. Only two tables so book in advance. Home-made wine, too.
MORE TO COME TO THIS NON-EXHAUSTIVE LIST...
STAY TUNED
For Ice Cream
SONDRIO
MEDIA Valtellina
MATERICA GELATO
Sat on the edge of town, this is not only Sondrio’s most stylish and well-curated cafe, the couple who run this great spot have taken a super innovative and forward-thinking approach to a traditional Italian gelateria. Delightfully unconventional with an array of creative ice cream flavours.
Open Wed-Sun, 15.00 - 20.00
For A RUSTIC RETREAT
VAL VIOLA
Alta Valtellina
Rifugio Federico in Dosdè
Set a few kilometres into the valley, this one is reachable only by bike or foot but it's worth every drop of sweat (although it's admittedly a very mellow hike to the rifugio). Run by Alpine stalwart and mountain legend Adriano Greco, expect a warm welcome, a delectable and substantial meal, clean mountain air and the best night's sleep around. From here the options for hiking, running and riding are UNREAL.
WINE & HOTEL
BERBENNO
MEDIA VALTELLINA
SESTERZIO
So any great reasons to like Sesterzio, not least because this family-run hotel also make stellar wines (including a rare Valtellina-native sparkling wine that merits its own celebration), but also because owner Nicola is a keen runner. They'll prepare virtually anything for your dinner, and while they really know their meats, they're also able to serve up some of the valley's most creative vegetarian meals around.
Note: they also dish up sublime versions of Valtellina's specialities of pizzoccherie and sciatt.